Matisse's Snail becomes pleated clothes, on sale at Tate Modern

A paper cut-out that Matisse made in 1953 has become a pleated cardigan. The Snail is the work behind a new capsule collection (a small range of clothes built around one idea) from Homme Plissé Issey Miyake. It went on sale on 17 September at Tate Modern.

How a cut-out became a cardigan

On 16 September, the clothes were unveiled in the Tanks at Tate Modern. Dresden Frankfurt Dance Company joined the label's second Open Studio event there. Open Studio is how the label shows its clothes in new places and communities, the label's page explains. A dance ensemble would perform a one-night, site-specific piece inspired by the making of the work, the page adds.

After 1948, Matisse made cut-outs from painted paper, and assistants arranged the pieces. The design team first saw the work on a visit to Tate Modern the year before. In the label's words, the "vibrancy and movement" of the cut-outs "spoke to the team directly". Their aim was to "animate each paper cut-out by translating it into a garment", the museum's release says.

What is in the range

Ten pieces make up the range, and the release names six.

• A button-front pleated cardigan, called The Snail Pleats, has a V-neck and two front pockets.
• Printed pieces include a sleeveless tunic and a short-sleeved T-shirt.
• Palette Pleats is a long-sleeved top in white, black, orange, emerald green and purple.
• Small pieces include a pleated crossbody bag with an adjustable strap.
• There is also a small, diamond-shaped pleated scarf.

Wear the scarf at the neck or attach it to a bag. Prices are not stated in the release.

Where and when to buy

Shoppers can buy the line at the Terrace Shop in Tate Modern or in the museum's online shop. Sales there run for a limited time, and no end date is given. Selected stores in Tokyo, Osaka and London follow in January 2027. At launch, the label's page says, only the museum's shop and online store sell it.

Our view

We would look at the original before buying the cloth. The Snail is on free display in the permanent collection at Tate Modern.

I tried to picture a snail wearing the scarf and gave up.

Would you visit?